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Writer's pictureEarth to Kellie

Antarctica: Embarkation and The Drake Passage (Days 1-3)


Day 1


Charter Flight


Boarding the charter flight to Punta Arenas from Santiago, Chile was so exciting, we were finally starting our adventure! When booking with Ponant, your charter flight and transportation to the port is included in the fee, which makes traveling to the ship stress-free. Ports may differ per itinerary and you may either embark on your ship from Punta Arenas or Ushuaia, Chile. The flight from Santiago to Punta Arenas takes about 3 1/2 hours.


The view of the Andes Mountains from the window seat is jaw-dropping.


Arrival at Presidente Carlos Ibáñez International Airport was a breeze as we stuck with the Ponant guides, making our way to the luggage carousel and then to the buses to transfer us to the port. Traveling via Ponant really did reduce a lot of our travel stresses.


Embarkation


Ponant's Le Commandant Charcot was majestic sitting in the port while we checked in our bags and handed our medical information over to the Ponant doctors and staff. We were welcomed onboard and handed our cabin keycards...with something quite surprising printed on them.



We were originally booked with the Prestige Stateroom, cabin 622. However, we were upgraded to a Deluxe Suite, cabin 821! We were shocked and so grateful by this upgrade, but we did question ourselves as to why we were bumped up. We assumed it was a nice gift from Ponant as we were getting married onboard, but we quickly learned that out of the 245 possible guests, only 70 arrived for the adventure of a lifetime. It was definitely a stressful time to travel overseas and I'm sure many guests failed their PCR tests or weren't prepared with all of their travel documents. Fortunately for us, not only did that give us a free cabin upgrade, but it also meant for a more intimate time onboard with outstanding service.



Our room was absolutely stunning and spacious. You can read more about the Deluxe Suite, Cabin 821, and Le Commandant Charcot's decks by visiting "Exploring Antarctica with Ponant: A glimpse of Le Commandant Charcot."

As we settled into our two-week home away from home, our stomachs growled, eager to start our culinary adventure onboard.


We visited the buffet for lunch, something we quickly learned was a rookie mistake when Nuna Gastronomic is open for lunch (except for embarkation and disembarkation days). The buffet had delicious food, but compared to cheaper and more family-friendly cruise lines, there weren't as many options to choose from. However, the buffet truly is quality over quantity and is a great choice if you prefer a quick meal or a snack. With fresh meats and cheeses, rich pastas, freshly baked bread, hearty soups, and more, you really can't go wrong choosing the buffet if you prefer convenience.



I had chosen steak, chicken pasta, mashed potatoes, and a slice of cake for my first meal. The view of the Strait of Magellan could not be beat!


We walked off our meal and visited the beautifully decorated Observation Lounge on deck 9. We grabbed a couple of cocktails and played a round of Scrabble while we took in the views all around us. The Observation Lounge was definitely the go-to area for the majority of travelers, and for a good reason. With panoramic views inside and an outside deck equipped with two Swarovski Optik telescopes, it was easy to relax with a cocktail in hand and appreciate the beautiful world around us.



It was time for the muster drill, and though it usually receives hefty sighs and eyerolls from travelers, this was very important considering we were going to be crossing one of the most dangerous parts of the ocean in just a few days...the notorious Drake Passage. Not only that, but Antarctica is also extremely unpredictable and dangerous in itself, so a Muster Drill is an obvious must. Le Commandant Charcot is equipped with a helicopter, 16 zodiacs, 4 life-boats, survival suits, floating polar shelters, and floatable water and food containers. Ponant is ready for anything and so should the guests onboard.


During the drill, we quickly realized that there was a language barrier between us and the crew onboard. Because Ponant is a French ship, French is the first language. Thankfully, all announcements were repeated in English and we never had difficulty conversing with the crew because most spoke English as well. Most of the scientists and guides were English-speaking only, so this made us feel slightly more comfortable as we had never sailed with a company from another country. However, we often felt like we were the "dumb" travelers onboard because we don't speak French, all internal feelings, of course. Ponant and the crew are exceptional and welcoming to all nationalities.



As we sailed away from the Strait of Magellan, into the South Atlantic Ocean during sunset, we sat down for our first dinner inside Nuna Gastronomic. The first couple of days on sea, I forgot to document what exactly we had ordered but by the photos, you can see that we were pampered with truffle and caviar. We were in awe by how luxurious this vacation already was, and it wasn't even a full day with Ponant. The service was spectacular and every dish was incredible. Creamy pastas, fresh fish, and perfectly prepared risotto was a great first dinner on Le Commandant Charcot.



The night settled and most of the guests turned in early after a long day of traveling, giving us the perfect opportunity to familiarize ourselves with every accessible deck onboard. Having traveled for quite some time, I've learned that early mornings or late nights are the best times to capture your photos without any disturbances. Sailing towards Antarctica, we were given the most stunning sunset with deep hues of orange that reflected beautifully off of the ocean. Embarkation day was ending and we prepared ourselves for two sea days on The Drake Passage. We said our good nights as we were rocked gently to sleep by the soft current.



Day 2


Our first full day at sea had arrived and we were approaching the Drake. We were quite excited for this right of passage to get to Antarctica, it's almost like a badge of honor to cross these rough waters.


We woke up early and grabbed breakfast at Nuna. On vacation, we rarely sleep in. Our travel style is "go go go." We enjoyed eggs benedict and fresh rolls with jam as well as my favorite breakfast item...crispy hashbrowns, something I rarely eat back at home. Since it was vacation, we decided to take up our inner Hobbit-selves and go up to the Detox Bar on Deck 9 for a second breakfast of freshly prepared smoothies. We immediately fell in love with The Detox Bar. Floor to ceiling windows overlooking the vast ocean, comfortable seats, a gently sloshing indoor pool, a warm and cozy temperature, and...no other guests, made this area so incredibly relaxing. It was almost like our very own retreat. With a delicious smoothie in hand, we melted into the lounge chairs and gazed outwards, enjoying our first full day of vacation.



Using our Ponant app, we kept a good pace with activities. There weren't many offerings onboard, something we weren't quite used to. We normally travel with more budget-friendly cruise lines where we tend to go to a lot of on-board activities like trivia, keeping us busy through-out sea days. However, Ponant is slower-paced during sea-days, which was a great way for us to be forced to relax and take it all in.


We went to our first lecture onboard inside the Theater on Deck 5, discussing survival suits and a possible float excursion that would allow us to use them in the Antarctic water. They gave us a time in which we could try out these suits to fully understand how to properly put them on; it was quite the process. This was a great opportunity for both the possible excursion and for survival if anything were to happen onboard. Unfortunately, the excursion was never offered, probably because only a few of us onboard took interest. In total, less than 10 people showed up for this try-on activity. I will say, I felt extremely claustrophobic in this awkward orange suit and panicked set in, forcing me to take deep breaths and tell myself that I was okay...but, I'm glad I tried it, especially because I now have this funny photo of me looking like a giant orange sea star.


Actually panicking inside this suit. Unfortunately, we had to wear masks during the duration of our time onboard, so I was feeling extremely claustrophobic.


After fashioning out these super stylish survival suits, we made our way to Deck 9 Forward where we enjoyed a mojito in the Observation Lounge and grabbed a light lunch at Inneq's outside grill. We were the only ones on the deck because it was super chilly due to the approaching Antarctic air. My husband, Brandon, enjoyed a hot-off-the grill cheeseburger with sweet potato fries. I ordered the Poke Bowl which was the freshest and most delicious I have ever had. Crunchy vegetables mixed with quality salmon and tuna, and ripe avocados made this meal so refreshing and filling. We ordered two more cocktails with lunch and quickly head inside to warm up inside the theater for another informative lecture about Seabirds of the Southern Ocean.



That night, we were welcomed to join the Captain's Dinner and encouraged to wear our finest attire. The festivities started in the theater where we were served champagne and creative appetizers before meeting all of the crew onboard. It was an elegant night and the positive energy flowed to Nuna, where we enjoyed our second gourmet dinner with Le Commandant Charcot.



We were served tartar with caviar, chickpeas with baked yellow squash, and warm brie topped with truffle with a side of roasted root vegetables. Ponant's changing menu is always innovative, delicious, and fresh. Having caviar and truffle two days in a row made us feel like kings; we were oh so pampered in luxury.



We relaxed in our Deluxe Suite, still feeling a bit hungry and we were quite curious if room-service was just as good. We ordered a cheeseburger with fries and a grilled chicken salad. If you're feeling hungry and want to stay inside your cabin, room-service is included in your fare, however, we had better meals at the buffet and nothing could compare to how delicious the food is at Nuna. Though, nothing beats room-service when you just want to lounge around in a robe.


Ponant is eco-friendly and has zero plastic waste onboard. The ketchup came in a glass jar and it was so yummy!


We were winding down for the night, later than usual. We had one more day of sailing The Drake Passage and so far, so good. We were surprised by how calm it was compared to the stories we read and videos we watched prior to sailing. I shut the curtains to the balcony door but not before noticing that the sun had never truly set. We were getting closer to Antarctica!



Day 3


After grabbing a quick bite of breakfast, we headed to the theater for one of the many lectures offered for the day. At 10am, we attended a lecture about excursions that Ponant was offering during our trip. There were sign-ups sheets in the Atrium for kayaking, polar plunge, and polar hikes. Because my fitness level wasn't a good fit for the intense polar hikes, I opted out. Anyone can choose their excursions but it's best to know your fitness level and what you can handle.

We signed up for the polar plunge and kayaking. Before arrival, make an appointment with your doctor to get an EKG as this is required for the polar plunge. Ponant did offer the EKG on board for 30 Euros, however, I'm unsure if this is offered during every trip.

Excursions are not guaranteed because weather in Antarctica can drastically change for the worst at any given moment. As such, when visiting, you are also not guaranteed to make landfall. Remember, Antarctica is the windiest, coldest, and driest continent on Earth, making it extremely dangerous to visit. Though traveling to the Great White Continent is expensive, it's also risky as nothing during your visit is guaranteed.



After the successful lecture and sign-up process, we walked over to Nuna for a light lunch

before heading back to the theater for another informative presentation. We enjoyed fresh sushi, delectable cheese with fruit and baked crackers, warm soup, gnocchi, and sausage. Every meal was delightful and I was shocked that I was enjoying kale for the first time!



Today's lectures were exciting as it prepared us for Antarctica and what we might expect for the following day. Ponant is an expedition ship which hosts scientists and tour guides, familiar with the environment and biology of the massive continent. The discussions were an introduction to the wildlife we may encounter as well as the location we would be visiting the following day.



After all of the lectures for the day were completed, we had some down time for a chocolate tasting at a nominal fee. We received 5 small squares of delicious chocolate with different percentages in cocoa. This was the only tasting offered onboard, probably because only a few people attended the event as well. I highly recommend adding any tastings to your itinerary while sailing with Ponant. The chocolates were fantastic and we learned how they were prepared.




Dinner quickly approached and spirits were high, Antarctica was near! Safely crossing the rather calm Drake Passage felt easy and I was secretly hoping to experience the notorious harsh seas when returning. For dinner, we enjoyed chicken consommé, truffled onion soup, Dubarry cauliflower creamy soup, chilled large shrimps with reduced broth and caviar, roasted potatoes with green asparagus and truffle sauce, and roasted rack of lamb with vegetables and seared gnocchi. Everything was so flavorful and rich. By day three, we were already feeling bummed that eating this well would not last forever. We enjoyed every dish and ordered an incredible amount from the menu, savoring every bite.



We settled back into our cabin for the night. Ponant offers evening music in the bars but when cruising, we enjoy utilizing our cabin and watching movies before bed. However, there was something on the horizon that kept me up until 3am. We threw on our complimentary parkas (yes, you get to keep these heavy-duty parkas) and stepped out onto the balcony. Land ho! Antarctica was in view and my heart raced, tears flowed, and I jumped for joy! When you cross off your number one bucket list item, everything feels perfect and you're on cloud nine! Pure bliss. Tomorrow, we are to step foot onto this magnificent continent.



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